Tiling

[jacks09]

need a wall tiled in my kitchen, to act as a splashback behind cooker and sink and think it will look better if I did the whole wall.

Thinking of attempting it myself - anyone have a a view on how hard tiling is? I'm ok at DIY but don;t want to mess it up - any tips?

[rendelharris]

As long as the plaster is smooth and sealed (you can seal yourself with a PVA/water mixture if not) it's dead easy really, just make sure you've got a good spirit level and tile cutter. Don't tile from floor/countertop upwards, it won't be even, start from a batten nailed to the wall (that's why you need a good spirit level) and fill the gap below afterwards. Check carefully as you go and use proper spacers (the traditional matchsticks aren't reliable). If you're not overconfident an offset pattern is easier to get looking really neat. Make sure you rake the tile adhesive (lots of tubs have rakes attached) to get the tile properly seated.

Go for it! Lots of videos on YouTube etc - I'm only a moderate DIYer but I've done quite a few bathrooms and kitchens and they've always come out fine.

[KidKruger]

as long as your wall is flat (check it with a straight edge) it's straightforward to get a basic job done.

If your ceiling is not perfectly horizontal you may get some drift in tile cuts at top of wall (assuming you want tiles to meet the ceiling), same with floor/worktop.

I'd check the area you want to cover, choose your tiles (or proposed tile size) so you can figure exactly how you'll lay them - and check youtube for tips.

[diable rouge]

Good advice so far. I would add not to use the ready made tubs of tile adhesive, instead buy a bag of adhesive powder and mix it up yourself, Mapei are very good and used by a lot of tilers. Worth noting that you can get coloured grouts, so depending on the colour of your tiles, you might find an off-white or even a light grey would be better suited than the standard white, ditto sealants...

[jacks09]

Thanks all,

The wall has been painted - do i need to reseal it?

I am tiling between a countertop and the bottom of the cupboards - would you suggest starting at the top or bottom?

[diable rouge]

Reseal with watered down PVA, one third water from memory but ratio usually given on the tub.

You need to check that the worktop and cupboards are level first.

What size of tile are you using?...

[jacks09]

do you let the PVA mix dry ?

[rendelharris]

jacks09 Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> Thanks all,

>

> The wall has been painted - do i need to reseal

> it?

>

> I am tiling between a countertop and the bottom of

> the cupboards - would you suggest starting at the

> top or bottom?

Definitely the bottom! Unless the tiles have a support underneath they'll slide down before the adhesive's dried. As DR says, check very carefully that your countertop is absolutely level - a digital spirit level (?20-30) is a good investment - if it's even a tiny bit out, don't use it as a base, nail a level batten to the wall, tile from that and backfill the space underneath afterwards. A tiny slope at the bottom can become startlingly magnified after just a few runs.

[jacks09]

Thanks - pretty confident they are level but will defo check!

[diable rouge]

You apply the PVA mix wet with a roller or brush, when dry (usually in a hour or so, although best to leave longer this time of year) it should feel slightly tacky, this is what gives the 'bond' for the tile adhesive to stick to.

With tiling you are introducing very visible horizontal and vertical lines, so setting-out is critical if you want a professional looking finish. Work out beforehand where tiles will be positioned and how they will line up with features e.g. cabinets, cooker hoods, sockets etc. If you have a strong focal point such as a hob/extract hood, use this as the vertical setting-out point, either centring the tile or the tile joint on the middle of the hob. Don't start with a full tile in a corner, like the worktop it might be out of plumb. Cut tiles work best in corners...

[rendelharris]

Good point DR I forgot that - essential to start in the middle and tile to the left and right! When I was young and foolish (as opposed to old and foolish as I am now) I started a bathroom from one wall going right to left, looked terrible and had to start again. "Offer up", as I believe the pros say, your tiles in advance and get it so you will have equal sized cut tiles at each end (if you're really lucky they'll fit exactly without the need for cutting but this happens about one time in twenty!).

[jacks09]

Yeah watched a video with Craig from Big Brother (remember him) that highlighted the importance of setting out.

If I left the PVa ove rnight is there a risk it could "over-dry"?

This has been great! thanks!

[diable rouge]

I don't think it matters as you're going over paint, however with new/bare plaster best to wait 24 hours to allow it to be fully absorbed...

[uncleglen]

jacks09 Wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------

> need a wall tiled in my kitchen, to act as a

> splashback behind cooker and sink and think it

> will look better if I did the whole wall.

>

> Thinking of attempting it myself - anyone have a a

> view on how hard tiling is? I'm ok at DIY but

> don;t want to mess it up - any tips?

I did that exact job myself- first go at tiling...I did have to invest in a tile cutter- brilliant piece of kit- (and NO I will not lend it out to anyone)....Also, get the plastic edging B and Q are good for this type of stuff

[rendelharris]

It doesn't really matter if the PVA dries completely - its main purpose is to seal the wall and prevent porous plaster from sucking the moisture out of your adhesive, making it shift and crack as it dries. The adhesive, if prepared correctly, will offer sufficient adhesion on its own.